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Dated: December 31, 1917
France
31.12.17
Dearest Girlie
This will be my last letter to you for this year. The last half of the year has slipped away very fast, because I was busy I suppose. And with present prospects I will be even busier next year. I am likely to leave here and go down to the Somme district working from G.H.Q. I don’t like leaving here a little bit, as here I am very comfortable and know the officers of Corps and Army and I have a free hand, go where I like, when I like. As my letters of late have shown you I travel all over Northern France and have opportunities to see the country as but few men in the B.E.F. have. Today I was down at the ancient city of ______ seeing about land for gardens. This is a famous district for vegetables and in peace times many trains leave there every day laden with fresh vegetables for Paris and other large cities. I had a new experience as I had lunch in the home of a real French gentleman, a splendid home. I would like to describe it to you, as you have noticed through all my letters I have often said these French people know but little about real comfort, and in spite of this mans evident wealth his home lacks that touch of ease and comfort which is brought to its highest pitch in the English country home. Well this house shows nothing but a plain outer wall to the street, but inside shows both taste and a full purse. A marble hall, (cold) many stained glass doors, large rooms, high ceelings, rich old furniture, much of it delicately carved, no doubt very valuable today, all of oak, the shelves and furniture loaded with ornemants, old bronze statuiets, heavy silver, bright and shining brass, fine old pottery. To much for an English house but seeming not out of place there. The table laid with fine linen cloth and napkins, old china and silver, thin wine glasses a fine old petwar jug for beer. The table was set for five Mosieur Lardevs Madame (his sister) his son (a lad home from school in Paris) Lieut Falicon and myself. Now there may be a shortage of food in France (which I doubt) but there was none there. Soup, (the French certainly excell in soup making) baked bacon with sauce, eaten with bread, first course. Mutton chops, and potatoes, (and here is a wrinkle for you to try some day, at the end of the bone from the chop wrap a bit of tin-foil so as to hold without getting the fingers greassy) second course, Pressed meat with jelly third course, baked apples, (and I would like to know how they were done, in England they pride themselves on their baked apples but never have I tasted any like these, they broke apart and were so light and meally as a real good Canadian potatoes) (potatoes on this side of the pond are always soggy) then thin cakes, sweets coffee (I can drink coffee like a native now), cigarettes, not to bad for a plain ordinary everyday lunch. Then in the course of our travels we were in two other fine homes, one which is the residence of our King when here, splendid homes but like the first very plain outside, but show wealth and taste when once within the heavy doors. This is rather a disjointed sort of description but you may get some idea from it. I wish I was good on descriptions as I see so much of interest. How some would revel in just describing those narrow winding streets, those old old buildings dating back for hundreds of years the two cathedrals, one in good condition the other burnt during the French Revolution and never repaired, the square or Grand Plaza crowded on market day with open booths, the farmers mostly women and girls selling eggs, butter, fowls, vegetables and every other manner of things not forgetting the paper flowers and the crowds of civilians and soldiers of all nationalities, all mixed together and the best of fellowship being shown on all sides, and our English traffic police directing all movement, never see a French policeman, and to watch the traffic through these old old streets. First a big five ton lorry, then and old donkey cart with a little donkey about the size of a big dog, then a great Catipiller engine drawing a big long naval gun or a twelve inch howitzer. Then a push cart with one two or three dogs hitched underneath, an how those dogs pull! Then a big Rolls-Royce motor car, then a farm cart loaded high with straw, one or two horses. I told you about the farm carts how they had no pole to steer by, and all this medeldy of old and new, great and small along these streets that have been there for a thousand years. What a chance for for one with imagination and power to transfer that imagination to paper, by paint or pen picture. Twice today the brige was up and we had to wait while the slow moving barges went through and I noticed two officers making sketches and was wishing I could sketch. At least in the future when I see sketches and pictures of Northern France I will be able to say whether they are true to life or not. I remember I often doubted some of the peasant scenes but now know they were mainly true.
Later Nearly midnight and very cold, but was just thinking that I am not near as uncomfortable as I was this time last year, for then I was down in that wet muddy trench or crawling out through the gloom and mud and wire and corruption to visit the listening posts, and being my first experience my hair was naturally on end, in fact I think it was lifting my steel hat well clear of my head. I had a Mills bomb in my hand and another in my pocket. As this year is better than last I hope next will be better than this. Two letters from you this week but both older than one the previous week. These dated the 5th and 7th. The one a very descriptive accound of the invasion of the Hughes tribe and connections. I think you hit them all off pretty well. Am very glad our Boys “played the game” while the visitors were there, it is such a satisfaction and takes a load off ones mind when expecting visitors when you know the kiddies will help instead of hinder. Mother also speaks of how well the Boys acted. She takes as much pride in our Boys as we do ourselves. I hope they may always live up to such a record, so one may always depend on them. I believe they will, and will be mainly due to their Mothers training.
I rather expected that Aunt Sarah and Uncle Abe would tell about what the USA were going to do. It is easy enough for them with their hundred or more millions and unlimited wealth to do big thing, but when compared in the true light they can never do what our few people have done. If you want to hear what Canada has done just ask an Englishman, he is unstinted in his praise and for some reason or other we are much more popular than any of the other colinealls. Maybe they know us better. One thing is that long ago that idea of the undiscplined Canadian disappeared, died a natural death, and today people speak of the wonderful discipline in the Canadian troops, which they never do of the Australians. I know these latter bunch, as I mix with them every day. Remember I get on with them fine and if I want anything or have some work wanted doing I always go to the Anzac Corps in prefference to any other because they do things and talk about it afterwards. Yet the men lack the discipline and smartness of the Canadian or English soldiers. We are using them now on the farm for plowing, ect., not right today as it is frozen up but were up till last week and hope to next week again. I prefer the Australians to the New Zealanders. I have never run across the Newfoundlanders yet, except when at their reserve base last winter. They are a smart snappy lot, but being only few in number naturally have not been able to make such a name for themselves as others.
Now midnight will soon be here. My light is going out and it is getting very cold so I am going to bed to get warm. So will close Hoping that this time next year we will be in our own little Home and watch the Old Year out and the New Year in together.
With love always to my Sweethearts.
John
Transcribed by: jrhughes